Category Archives: Fashion

HOT SCOTTS

First came  Christopher Kane, then came Jonathan Saunders. Now the latest Hot Scott craftily making her way towards fashion domination is my new No.1, ex Lanvin accessories designer Holly Fulton. Whether a diehard fan such as myself or not, it is inarguable that her vibe is unmistakably modern, unique &  fashion forward. Paradoxically this final aesthetic is achieved through explicit tribute to art deco architerture of the 1930s, both in structure of her clothing and fabric pattern design. Although Scottish born and London based, for her Spring/ Summer 2010 collection, Fulton turns to New York City as her source of inspiration, looking closey at a guide book written specifically for the opening of The Empire State Building and the Pop Art of Scottish artist Sir Eduardo Paolozzi, in particular his screenprint of 1964, “Wittgenstein in New York.”

Wittdenstein in New york by Eduardo Paolozzi

With her collection Fulton transcends Paolozzi’s two dimensional canvas and applies similar geometric design, reflective of the architectural embellishments of skyscrapers such as The Empire State Building and The Rockerfeller Centre, to her three dimensional and highly covetable fashion creations. Meticulously drawn, swirling prints and graphic patterns emblazon silk, light wool and leather mini dresses, knee length skirts and shirts. The various items that make up her collection; simple in shape, bold in design, follow a Paolozzi-esque palette of basic monochromes accented by orange, yellow, blue and green to give them a visual reminiscent of the stylized aesthetic of pop art  and a futuristic edge. These are accompanied by bib sized statement necklaces, dangling earings and giant clutches accented with crystal and metal detail.

The clever entwinement of architectural tribute with art historical appreciation with progressive thought, renders Fulton one of the most exciting designers around. Although the final aesthetic achieved is neither blatantly feminine nor obviously sexy, there is something intrinsically alluring about a look that addresses these things so satisfyingly with the simplicity of symmetry.

Death of a legend

A British hero who changed the world …let his legend live on…

Give me Miu Miu

A little something I wrote for a Vogue competition..

Nowadays we live in a “black is back,” kind of world. When it comes to fashion, it is accepted, expected even, that progression be achieved through reinvention of past trends. Nautical, Military and Cowgirl “looks,” have become cyclical catwalk occurrences. They are safe bets. Black will always works because it is slimming, nautical stripes are flattering, cowgirls are sexy and fashion on a commercial level is ultimately about looking great and feeling good.

At the other end of the fashion spectrum we have those occasions whereby design is directed at mould breaking, trendsetting & forward thinking. Although such feats still exist within the sphere of modern fashion, they are usually achieved to the detriment of commercial viability. Whereas in the 1960s widening the base of a trouser leg was a move sufficient to catalyze a new trend, today ingenuity bears the burden of a lengthy history that is only getting longer. Take Hussein Chalayan for example, a pioneer on the contemporary fashion scene with his dual-purpose furniture clothing. A dress that turns into a table. Clever? Undoubtedly. But practical? I think not. Desirable? Again, inspiring on a catwalk but not something that one could wear on an average day in the office, although it could potentially come in handy should the modern working woman find herself at a loss for a convenient place to set up her lap top and rest her soya milk late.

And so we are left in the midst of a creative conundrum; have we reached a point whereby we have exhausted all of the commercially viable routes to inventing new trends? Have we reached our creative capacity? As social psyche becomes more attuned with the need for recycling, is fashion to be subjected to the same fate of logic?

Thankfully Miu Miu’s Spring Summer 2010 collection has come along and dissolved my disillusionment. From top-to-toe it stands explicitly as testament to the fact that 21st Century fashion can be both pioneering and wearable. Miu Miu have created a highly desirable new look that sits viably with their repertoire and have done so by building a collection upon new shapes and silhouettes, experimental fabric combinations, and quirky prints. Chunky satin platform heels and ankle boots are worn with ankle grazing suit trousers, sleeveless shirts and cropped bolero jackets, speckled with puppies, daisies, kittens, swallows or female reclining nudes. There are high wasted schoolgirl skirts, cropped tops and short dolly dresses with puff sleeves and ruffles. Bra bandeaus are worn over shirts and dresses made from nude mesh and embroidered with patterns of twinkling crystals and sequins. Structure is instilled through use of block colouring and a diverse palette that ranges from sexy midnight blues and blacks , to seductive nudes, to childlike pastel blues, yellows and pinks, to glaring greens, blood reds and rusts.

What may appear on paper as a bonafide recipe for fashion calamity achieves an effect that is quite the opposite. The aesthetic is one of multi layers and beautiful contradictions. Whereas Victorian primness is suggested in the adoption of high necklines and ruffled sleeves, dresses reveal sexy slices of flesh in surprising places. Fabric prints and the nonchalant sweeping side plaits worn by models are suggestive of girly innocence whilst sharp tailoring alludes to sophistication as well as androgyny. In this collection Miu Miu present us with an abundance of new ideas but also force us to reevaluate old institutions such as the work shirt and the roles of under and outer wear. Their look is inventive, desirable and most importantly wearable. The aesthetic may be mixed up but the message is perfectly clear. This is progressive clothing for the adventurous Twenty-first century woman.

London Fashion Week

Roksanda Ilincic Autumn/ Winter 2010

With a collection inspired by “dark clouds, metal flowers and the Bronte sisters,” Roksanda Ilincic proved herself as London’s hottest fashion property once more. Having stood out in the drizzle for an hour prior to the show’s start  I presumed that my tolerance for all things gloomy had reached its limit however, Roksanda’s (mostly) monochromatic clothing confronted her thematic dark skies with a novellesque romance that was extremely alluring. Texture was achieved through delicate metallic flower embellishments and the subtle use of varied opulent fabrics; soft free flowing silks, plush fur and thicker, structured wools. Her frizzy haired models complemented my own look nicely and in their Nicholas Kirkwood heels, signature single seamed draped dresses,  they strutted defiantly down the catwalk; the beautiful embodiments of London’s brooding skies.

The best of the rest – A few of my favourite pieces…..

Christopher Blanken high waisted silver shimmer pants:

Peter Lang Australia bangles/ rings :

Forgotten Future geometrics:

Bryce Aime Lady GaGa costumes

Prose Studio extra padding  

Swagga & Soul leather jackets and crop tops

Yan To black bandage mini dress and barbed choker:

Samantha Cole pure whites:

Aroma 30 knock out numbers:

Yang Du Jumpers:

Derek Lawlor weaves:

Madonna-Free Zone; Malcolm did it first

I’ve had a couple of recent revelations that I would like to share.

The other day it was pointed out to me that the fruit I had believed to be a pomegramate for the twenty-four years of my existence, is actually called a pomegranate. How this passed me by for almost a quarter of a century I do not know, however until yesterday a good (and slightly older) friend of mine thought Sherlock Holmes was a historically accurate figure, which makes me feel way better. Another thing that I have discovered is that contrary to popular belief, Madonna did not invent the vogue, Malcolm McLaren did it first.

In fact neither Madonna nor Malcolm can be credited for the actual invention of the Vogue, which was born from the U.S inner city gay club scene in the late 1980s. However in 1989 Mclaren, whose previous accomplishments included shacking up with Vivienne Westwood to provide the world with Punk, released Deep in Vogue, a song that reached no.1 on the Billboard Dance Chart and whose masterfully crafted, highly stylized but understated video introduced the underground Voguing culture to the mainstream.

Madonna’s Vogue, which was released in, and reached no.1 A YEAR LATER, features an uncannily similar montage of hand gestures, body poses and movements to Deep in Vogue. Beat, baseline and general groove; it’s all a rip off. Whereas McLaren provides an uncomplicated insight into underground culture by maintaining and expressing the raw identity of the Vogue,  Madonna’s version by comparison stands as the self indulgent romp of a manufactured pop icon.

Contrary to what history has evolved to suggest,  the triangle titted Queen of pop should neither be credited for creating, nor masterminding the mainstream emergence of  the Vogue. Pop star she may be, but revolutionary, trend setting legend she is not. Well done Malcolm.

It appears that I am not the only one who Madonna has agitated with her glory stealing. On his album Midtown 120 Blues (voted no.1 dance album of 2009 by Resident Advisor) DJ Sprinkles reveals his own distain for Madonna’s underhand Voguing tactics. In his aptly titled track Ball’r (Madonna Free Zone,) Sprinkles says:

“When Madonna came out with her hit Vogue you knew it was over. She had taken a very specifically queer, transgendered, Latino and African-American phenomenon and totally erased that context with her lyrics, “It makes no difference if you’re black or white, if you’re a boy or girl.” Madonna was taking in tons of money, while the Queen who actually taught her how to Vogue sat before me in the club, strung out, depressed and broke. So if anybody requested Vogue or any other Madonna track, I told them, “No, this is a Madonna free zone! And as long as I’m DJ-ing you will not be allowed to Vogue to the decontextualized, reified, corporatlized, liberalized, neutralized, asexualized, re-genderized, pop reflection of this dancefloor’s reality!”

WRANGLE THIS

Cruciatus on a total hottie……Dreams

http://www.eu.wrangler.com/bluebell/#/collection/

Rockers

If its illegal to rock and roll…. throw my ass in jail….

Quote Kurt Cobain. Photos Dick Jewell. Collage me. Lyrics Deep Purple.

Another Icon…. Grace Jones

Soooooooo Rihanna thinks shes Grace Jones now…..

Think again love…………

Me n’ my Gruffalo

Been hanging out with my Gruffalo Carol.

Four days and counting….

And if I wasn’t already excited enough Opening Ceremony have collaborated with Spike Jonze to bring out Max’s iconic one-piece playsuit. sexy. as well as an entire clothing/accessories line inspired by the book and its characters….

To see the whole line visit the opening ceremony site http://www.openingceremony.us/p318.html

ESCAPE with Isabel Marant (Glam Rock meets London Bad Boy)

Marant4

When I was working in Paris this Spring I almost had one of those Romantic movie moments that everyone dreams of. Picture this: me running through the cobbled side streets of the left bank. It’s pouring with rain and I’m drenched. Mascara is running down my cheeks, my socks are wet and I’m like totally melancholy. Through the heavy rain drops and mist something catches my attention. For some reason unbeknownst to myself I am lured by a mysterious force towards it; my savior. A gorgeous Parisian Yves Saint Laurent male model you ask…mais non, not this time. Instead a gorgeous Parisian boutique, with a clothing collectiong that wasn’t far off perfection. Seriously. These were clothes that girls really want to wear. Casual but elegant, the various mini skirts and boyfriend blazers called out to me with their ‘Glam Rock meets London bad boy’ style ( and French accent.)

Marant5

Of course I couldn’t actually try anything on, I was soaked. So I settled for a peruse comforted by the fact that I promised myself that I would return the following day – avec mon carte de credite. What I had accidently, and very fortunately stumbled upon was up and coming French designer Isabel Marant’s left bank boutique which, over the past two seasons has become an essential stop off point on the Parisian Fashion map. Unlike other high fashion labels, Marant’s clothes are effortless, wearable, affordable and extremely desirable. Marant is already pretty sorted on the model front with the likes of Lara Stone, Lilly Donaldson and Raquel Zimmerman recruited for her catwalk team and with stores due to open Los Angeles and Soho, New York next year, it won’t be long before Marant’s loose hippified pieces become a staple part of every fashion follower’s wardrobe. Fingers crossed she’ll decide two Soho’s are better than one and set up shop next in London where her clothes can be put to good use seducing the bad boys that inspire them.

Fall 09 Isabel Marant - Leopard

-SW